Finally, after coating everything that could shock me I closed up the case. I tested it first of course...I needed access to the traces to do the testing...but after making sure it was all working as espected, I sealed all the AC circuits with the brush on electrical tape (Much cheaper at ACE hardware than conformal coating from Digikey or somewhere). I don't want to accidently shock the crap outta myself while poking around in the enclosure. Here is the final unit all sealed up. Notice the Two indicator LEDs were mounted on the BOTTOM of the pcb, and two holes drilled for them to fit into...If you want to just run wires from the LED holes on the PCB and mount your LEDs differently..then thats why this is a DIY :)
And a nother view of the case where the computer type plug goes to plug it into the wall.
As with all my other projects, I make no guarantees of any kind that this will work, not blow up, or not cause divorce, injury to fish, pets, or yourself.
The project is provided as is, and is soley a guide if you CHOOSE to make one. That being said, mine works fine and does what it is supposed to. I plan to
release a version 2 of the software at some point that will allow control of 2 reservoirs with one set of switches in the tank, and fill from one THEN the other
when the first is empty...hence the "sequential" mode switch you see on the schematics. This will require a complete re-write of the code, so I may be lazy about
it unless alot of people want this feature....
That being said, if there is enough interest, I can get the bare pcbs made if I can get 25 people interested at $10 a board plus shipping. Let me know in
the feedback section, and thanks for reading...I can now avoid having to topoff everyday and only have to fill the reservoir about 3 times a week! SWN